How to Grow Roses

In this article, we share a comprehensive guide to growing roses at home.

Quick Guide Information:

• Common Name: Rose

• Scientific Name: Rosa spp.

• Family: Rosaceae

• Plant Type: Perennial Shrub or Climber

• Life Span: Perennial

• Time Till Bloom: Late Spring to Autumn - often 8–12 weeks for bare-root roses under good conditions; established roses typically flower from spring through autumn (climate and variety dependent).

• Light Requirement: Full sun, ideally 6–8 hours of direct sun daily (morning sun is especially helpful).

• Optimum pH: 6.2 - 6.8 (many growers aim around the mid-6s).

Roses are the undisputed royalty of the garden. Revered for centuries for their fragrance and beauty, they are one of the most diverse groups of plants available to the horticulturist. From the classic Hybrid Teas that produce singular, perfect blooms, to the hardy Floribundas that flower in clusters, and the vigorous climbing varieties that can cover an archway, there is a rose for every garden design.

While roses have a reputation for being finicky or high-maintenance, modern varieties are increasingly disease-resistant. However, growing a prize-winning rose bush still requires attention to detail. Success with roses is largely about establishing a routine of feeding, watering, and pruning to keep the plant vigorous and able to defend itself against pests.

Propagation, Planting, and Maintenance:

Roses thrive in temperate to warm climates. They require a location with full sun and excellent air circulation. Stagnant air encourages fungal diseases, which are the rose’s biggest enemy.

Most roses are purchased either as "bare-root" plants in winter or as potted plants in spring and summer.

• Bare-root planting: Soak the entire root system in clean water for 2–24 hours before planting (overnight is fine) to rehydrate the plant. Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots out comfortably. In frost-prone areas, position the bud union about 5–10 cm below the soil surface for winter protection. In warm regions, place it at soil level (or slightly above, depending on local practice).

  
  

• Potted planting (not to be confused with planting IN a pot): Dig a hole twice the width of the pot. Improve soil by incorporating compost or well-rotted manure through a wide area of the bed, not just the planting hole, especially in heavy soils, to avoid drainage problems.

Watering and Feeding

Roses are heavy feeders and thirsty plants.

• Watering: Water deeply at the base of the plant. Avoid overhead watering, as wet foliage significantly increases the risk of black spot and mildew. In summer, they may need deep soaking 2-3 times a week.

  
  

• Feeding: Apply a balanced rose fertiliser or blood and bone once in early spring when new growth appears, and again in late summer to encourage an autumn flush of blooms.

  
  

• Pruning is essential for rose health. It stimulates new growth and opens up the center of the plant to light and air.

• Winter Pruning: In winter (July/August in the southern hemisphere), cut the bush back by about one-third to one-half. Remove all dead, damaged, or spindly wood. Aim for an "open vase" shape by removing branches that grow inward or cross over each other. Always cut at a 45-degree angle, about 5mm above an outward-facing bud. 

  
  

• Deadheading: During the flowering season, remove spent blooms to encourage the plant to produce more flowers rather than setting seed (hips). 

Nutrient Support and Foliar Care 

As roses move through active growth and into flowering, they benefit from consistent, balanced nutrition. This steady support helps maintain healthy leaf growth, strong stems, and ongoing bud development across the season.

If you are following The Carbon Garden Program, begin the fortnightly foliar cycle once new growth is well established in spring and continue through the main growing period:

• Week 1: Plant Food (10ml per litre of water) 

• Week 2: CropBioLife Activator (2ml per litre) + Plant Tonic (2ml per litre) 

Repeat this simple two-week rhythm throughout the growing season. Spray in the early morning or evening, avoid hot or windy conditions, and allow leaves to remain wet long enough for foliar uptake.

A note on how the system works:

CropBioLife Activator contains natural flavonoids, and its role is to improve nutrient uptake. Improved nutrient uptake supports overall plant health, which can contribute to steadier growth, better flowering potential, and improved resilience as conditions change through the season.

If you are using a different fertiliser program, keep inputs light and balanced, and avoid overfeeding. Apply any separate fertilisers on different days to your CropBioLife spray. The Carbon Garden approach focuses on natural, non-toxic inputs and simple foliar nutrition, with the three core products intended to work together.

Whether you follow The Carbon Garden cycle or another gentle routine, consistency is key. Regular foliar care, thoughtful timing, and balanced nutrition help roses maintain healthy foliage and continue flowering over a long season.

Common Problems:

Black Spot: This is the most common fungal disease, appearing as black circular spots on leaves which eventually turn yellow and drop off. It is caused by warm, humid conditions and wet leaves. To manage, prune away infected parts, clear fallen leaves from the ground immediately to prevent spores from overwintering, and spray with a copper-based fungicide or eco-fungicide.

Aphids: These small green or black insects cluster on new buds and shoot tips, sucking the sap and distorting growth. They can be squashed by hand, blasted off with a strong jet of water, or treated with horticultural oil.

Powdery Mildew: A white, dusty coating on leaves and buds, often occurring when days are warm and nights are cool. It thrives in stagnant air. improve airflow by pruning and treat with a sulfur-based fungicide if severe.

Dieback: This occurs when stems turn black and die from the tip downwards, usually after pruning. It can be caused by dull pruning shears crushing the stem or a fungal infection entering the cut. Always use sharp, clean tools and cut just above a healthy bud.

Suckers: These are vigorous shoots that grow from the rootstock below the graft union. They look different from the main rose (often different leaf count) and will sap energy from the main plant. These must be pulled or cut off as close to the root as possible.

By following these seasonal care tips, asparagus will establish sturdy ferns and support healthy spear production over many years. For gentle, seasonally aligned guidance, visit www.thecarbongarden.com.au or explore our garden guides.